St. James Public House

275


Marc Piperno
ET Week

    Opening on the north side of town in St James comes a new restaurant that redefines what American comfort food is all about. What was once the hitching post for several restaurants over the last two decades, St James Public House challenges the odds with their innovative and trendy eatery. But that’s not all. At the helm of the kitchen is Chef Al Hand. A graduate from Johnson Wales,  Chef Hand has been in the food biz for 35 years and has put together a creative menu that is cutting edge with a twist on several traditional American offerings.
    Completely renovated, St James Public House is quickly creating “the buzz” with the locals and those outside the immediate area. As you enter, you’ll find an inviting bar with over-sized booths that can handle 6 people with ease. If you don’t like the bustle of the bar scene, the lower level of the restaurant lends itself for a more traditional dining setting.
    The menu is packed with over 20 appetizers, soups and salads. Your biggest challenge will be to decide what to try, as it all looks so amazingly good. Satisfy your craving by going with a group and share a bunch of apps, like the “Baked Local Oysters. Four Blue Point darlings stuffed with spinach, plum tomato and gruyere cheese, laced with Applewood bacon, then topped with butter panko bread crumbs and Beurre Blanc. Three words: Plump, Savory, Incredible! The “Asian Duck Wings” was a first for me. Crescent Farm duck wings, tossed in a sweet and spicy Asian glaze, then dusted in black and white sesame seeds. Emulating traditional chicken wings, the real innovation comes from the wasabi sour cream, replacing the traditional blue cheese dressing. Fried till crispy, fall off the bone goodness is what best describes this appetizer.
    For our mains, we went for a fish and meat selection. The “Crab Encrusted Salmon”, prepared with lump crab meat, baked, then drizzled with Beurre Blanc was served on a bed of lemon scented basmati rice, complimented by fresh grilled asparagus. This is the Scottish Salmon variety, which means it’s not farm raised. The Beurre Blanc mingling with the rice gave it a kind of silky texture. A large portion, fresh and full of flavor.
    We also shared, the “Braised Short Ribs”. A generous portion of tender fall of the bone beef ribs, simmered in red wine with root veggies and mushrooms, served atop creamy polenta and sautéed fresh baby spinach. You want American? You got it! Bountiful and savory. The topper is how the sauce of the red wine and natural juices of the meat infuse the polenta, making this entrée a wonderful treat! 
    St James Public House’s upscale cuisine is making its’ mark as a restaurant that I am certain will stand the test of time.